Each item I make is stitched together by hand. I don't use a sewing machine as I believe the saddle stitch method provides a stronger, more long lasting stitch. Requiring two needles (one at either end of the thread), I pass each needle through the same hole from either side, essentially overlapping the thread to create a strong, long lasting stitch.
The Stitching Pony
The stitching pony is a friend to all leather workers! It grips the leather piece so that you're free to use both hands for the saddle stitch method. As you can see, the use of two hands is definitely preferred, so having those hands free is a great benefit.
The Signature Slant
Nothing says "stitched by hand" more than the characteristic slant of the thread used in the saddle stitch. This is where one end of the stitch lays on top of the next. When several stitches are laid down, the slanted pattern is formed.
Contrast And Spacing
Hand stitching a wallet isn't always about whacking holes into the leather and filling it with thread. There are many factors to think about. The thickness of the thread when compared to the distance between the holes is one factor. The type of tool you use to create the holes in the leather is another factor. Are the holes thin, thick, diamond shaped, oval shaped? The angle of prongs in the tool used to create the holes is yet another factor. Forty-five degrees, thirty-three, twenty? These factors can impact how the 'signature slant' is formed. The only real way to get it right is to practice, experiment and make many, many mistakes.